Shopping for Brains

Food & Traditions
Culture & Heritage
Grandma Stella goes shopping with her friend Shama for ingredients for her Rosh Hashanah table, but ends up buying lamb’s brains, a dish reminiscent of her father’s favorite supper.
Author

Stella Tawfik-Cooperman

Published

August 31, 2021

Today, my friend Shama took me to buy the end bits of the things I need for my Rosh Hashanah table. She had heard of this new supermarket that had opened on the Island. Her friends had told her they have fabulous fruits and vegetables. At ten o’clock, she picked me up. I was looking for snake beans and beets. I was looking for pomegranates, and I was looking for dates on the vine. That store did not even know what snake beans are! Their pomegranates were pathetic and puny! They looked like they had survived the seven years of famine in Egypt during Biblical times. The beets, however, were perfect. I like them small and sweet. Everywhere else, they were overgrown and stringy. I selected a bagful of them. I shall boil them and peel them. Then I will marinate them in the liquid they were cooked in, steeped in honey, lemon juice, and parsley flakes. Perfect!

As I was imagining my Rosh Hashanah table with all the foods we say the blessings over, I heard Shama call me in great excitement.

‘’Stella! Stella! You wouldn’t believe what they have. Come quickly,’’ she said in great excitement.

I hurried as fast as my gamey leg would allow. She was standing in front of the meat counter. The display cases were empty. Behind the counter stood a young man grinning from ear to ear. She also was grinning ear to ear. As I approached, she announced, ‘’He has brains!’’

Now I began grinning as well. ‘’He has brains?’’ I echoed.

He nodded.

‘’How much?’’ I asked.

‘’How many do you want?’’ he asked.

‘’Three.’’

‘’Five dollars each,’’ he said.

I shook my head regretfully. ‘’Too dear!’’ I said, as I turned to go.

I forgot to mention, we were in a Pakistani supermarket. We had now reverted to the old Middle Eastern way of shopping. Shama began to speak with him in Ordu. I recognized the language because it is derived from the Persian language and I could understand a bit of what they said.

‘’How many do you want?’’ he asked.

‘’Three,’’ I said.

‘’If you buy four, I will give them to you for ten dollars,’’ he said.

At that point, Shama also asked for some. That was an easy negotiation. Very easy. I’m not complaining, and neither was Shama. I did not get pomegranates, nor dates on the vine, nor snake beans. One thing I did get is one of our family’s favorite supper dishes, lamb’s brains. In my mind, I picture this dish being placed in front of Papa for supper and the look of anticipation upon his face as he slowly begins to eat. Because of him, all the family is fond of brains!

As for all the Rosh Hashanah blessings, I still have time. I have the majority of the items I need, and this year, we’re such a tiny group.

I am now sitting on the porch. It is the end of the day. The sun is setting. There is a hush in the air. The cicadas and the crickets are beginning their evening songs, and today I am content for I bought a bit of fond memory in the form of lamb’s brains, one of my father’s favorite supper dishes. I leaned back on my chair and smiled. I had not bought the blessings for my Rosh Hashanah table, but I remembered a sweet memory from my childhood.